Hormonal acne - The guide

September 2, 2020

Hormonal acne - The guide

by Leonie Poppe

Your guide to hormonal acne 

For many, acne is an emotionally stressful issue that cannot simply be "creamed away" with a few creams and serums. For people with clear skin, it is perhaps easy to say that we should love ourselves and our skin despite blemishes. From personal conversations and sometimes from my own experiences, I know only too well that it takes a lot from those who struggle with these sometimes very painful blemishes. Acne is often equated with a lack of hygiene and is therefore often associated with shame. This is difficult to gloss over.

But I don't want it to remain a shameful topic for you and lead to insecurities in the long term. You shouldn't have the feeling that you have to hide. Quite the opposite! I want acne to be seen as something normal. Which doesn't mean that we shouldn't do anything about it. After all, it is a sign that something is not quite right. But I hope that the more the subject comes up, the more we know about it, the less stressful it will be. I want you to come to terms with your skin! :-) 

Dealing with acne has so much to do with your own attitude. What makes you beautiful to others is you, your story, your experiences, your attitude and your radiance! Not blemishes or skin imperfections. This way you take the pressure off yourself and the journey to the actual cause becomes easier. 

That's why it's so important for me to educate you about acne and show you what you can actually do about it - besides having a positive attitude! :-) 

And because so many customers have asked us via the various channels, I will focus in particular on hormonal acne. It is one of the most common. 

Find out more in this article:

  1. How does acne develop? 
  2. What specifically causes hormonal acne and how does it manifest itself?
  3. Why are women particularly affected by hormonal acne?
  4. What can I do against acne and which products will help me?
  5. What improvement can I really expect from care products?
  6. My personal tips for you  

1 How does acne develop?

In a nutshell: acne is a disorder of the sebaceous glands. It is an inflammatory "multifactorial" skin condition. This means that there are many different causes that can influence or trigger the development of acne: 

  • Hormones 
  • Nutrition 
  • Genetics
  • Stress

And as always, our hormones play a super important role here too! I've already mentioned it in other blog articles, but our hormones work together in a very delicate and vulnerable system. This system controls important functions in our body. This is why hormonal fluctuations are often reflected in our skin. We have an exciting podcast with hormone coach & integrated nutritionist Kati Siemens recorded. We talk about the basic function of hormones, how our balance gets out of whack, what this has to do with our skin and, above all, how we can bring our skin and our hormones back into balance. Kati also explains what the first steps are when we suspect that something is wrong hormonally and that our skin wants to draw attention to itself with its very own language. For example, with hormonal acne. 

Puberty is predestined for this! 70 to 95% of the population are "affected" at least once in their lives. Acne is one of the most common diagnoses in dermatologists' surgeries. 

In most cases, the combination of seborrhea (excessive sebum production) and hyperkeratosis (excessive keratinization of the outer skin layer) forms the basis for micro-inflammation of the sebaceous glands and hair follicles. The skin finds it harder to shed old horny cells. The pores become blocked and sebum accumulates. 

The abundance of sebum provides a great breeding ground for some bacteria that are naturally found on our skin. One bacterium is particularly fond of this: Propionibacterium acnes, which is why it gives acne its name. Propionibacterium feels at home in excess sebum and metabolizes fatty acids on an assembly line. Its excretion products cause inflammation, resulting in unpleasant pressure pain and redness. Blackheads, pustules, papules/pimples and lumps develop. Preferably on skin areas with many sebaceous glands. These include the face, neck, back, shoulders and upper chest area.  

But how could it be otherwise, not all acne is the same. Of course, acne manifests itself differently in each person and in different degrees of severity and manifestations. A visit to the dermatologist is therefore recommended for severe forms. That's why I'm mainly giving supportive tips and recommendations for milder forms here. However, you may have already tried a few things and nothing has really helped you yet. That's why I want to take a holistic look at the topic and give you a few ideas. There is certainly something you can change to achieve an improvement. :-)

2 What specifically causes hormonal acne and how does it manifest itself?

Why do I particularly want to talk about hormonal acne? Because it is sometimes the most common form of acne. 

In this case, these hormones then lead to the above-mentioned seborrhea and/or hyperkeratosis and, in addition to our hormones, our skin also gets out of balance. 

During puberty, blemishes are mainly located in the T-zone, i.e. on the forehead, nose and chin.

In adulthood, we see the effects more in the lower part of the face, on the underside of the cheeks and in the jaw area. Because the inflammation is often deep under the skin, cosmetic products can rarely reach it. However, they can still alleviate acne. Nevertheless, it is immensely important that you take a holistic view of your body and not just treat the areas externally and selectively.

3 Why are women particularly affected by hormonal acne?

Men and boys are actually more frequently affected by acne. This is simply because sebaceous glands are particularly sensitive to androgenic hormones. Androgens, including testosterone, are sex hormones that are responsible for the development of the male sex organs. They are found in men, but also in us women. 

During puberty, sex hormones increase equally in both sexes. However, as boys' skin is naturally thicker and oilier, the threshold for acne to develop is somewhat lower than in women. 

In addition, the hormonal balance in men balances out over the course of their lives.

However, women also experience hormonal fluctuations more frequently in later life: during pregnancy, before the menopause, due to hormonal contraceptive methods or hormonal diseases with increased androgen levels. If we have too many of these in us, we may not ovulate or have our period. The cycle and fertility are therefore disrupted. This form of hormonal disorder is called polycystic ovary syndrome (PCO syndrome).

Another trigger is stopping the pill. I have already covered this topic in detail in this blog post in this blog post. Temporary post-pill acne can occur after stopping the pill. This is because the pill suppresses sebum production and, depending on the form of the pill, inhibits androgens, i.e. the "male" hormones. Although this can curb excessive body hair or pimples while taking the pill, the androgens shoot up again after stopping the pill and with them the production of sebum.

4. what can I do against acne and which products will help me?

Products for the care of blemished skin
Niacinamide serum
50 ml

Reduces redness, enlarged pores and evens out the complexion

39,90 €

incl. VAT, plus shipping

798,00 € / 1l

Cleansing Gel
100 ml

Cleanses your skin mildly and oil free with plant-based surfactants

29,90 €

incl. VAT, plus shipping

299,00 € / 1l

Azelaic acid serum
50 ml

Actively treats impurities & redness and oily shine

39,90 €

incl. VAT, plus shipping

798,00 € / 1l

Spot cream
10 ml

Takes care of spots and impurities selectively and effectively

22,90 €

incl. VAT, plus shipping

2.290,00 € / 1l

BHA peeling
100 ml

Unclogs pores, reduces shine and leaves your skin radiant

38,90 €

incl. VAT, plus shipping

389,00 € / 1l

Zinc toner
100 ml

Clears your skin down to the pores, regulates and inhibits inflammation

29,90 €

incl. VAT, plus shipping

299,00 € / 1l

Clay Mask
100 ml

Clears and removes blackheads and flakes from your skin

34,90 €

incl. VAT, plus shipping

349,00 € / 1l

Generally speaking: Anything that helps against inflammation. As acne is particularly noticeable due to inflammatory processes, it is important that you take care to prevent or even completely inhibit inflammation in the future. 

Of course, you can achieve this with anti-inflammatory and supportive care products on the one hand, but also with anti-inflammatory measures from within. We have all neglected a balanced diet, stress reduction and healthy sleep for far too long. Thankfully, it is now becoming increasingly clear how important these points are for us and our health and therefore also for healthy skin. 

However, before I recommend any skincare products, it's important to remember that the skin needs around 28 days to renew itself. So it's better not to try more than 1 or 2 new products at once. Give your skin time to react to the ingredients and get used to them. Then you can integrate the next product into your skincare routine. 

The skin is rather sensitive when it is struggling with acne. That's why you shouldn't overwhelm it with too many new things. Be patient with yourself and your skin. 

I have had good experiences with these care products, which is why I am happy to recommend them to for acne prone skin . 

Mild cleanser with our Cleansing Gelto avoid damaging the skin barrier, but still remove all dirt and deposits from the skin. A cleanser AM and PM is often recommended. However, I have also found that an evening cleanser is even better for the skin! But that's something you have to find out for yourself.

  • Azelaic acid is the active ingredient for blemishes. It is of plant origin and provides all-round care for blemished skin. It soothes inflammation, reduces redness and mattifies oily shine. It also has an antibacterial effect and strengthens the skin's protective barrier. It attacks spots and pimples exactly where it is needed: In the development of inflammation and defense against germs and bacteria. 

  • Vitamin C serum works anti-inflammatory, reduces redness and lightens pigmentation spots. Pimple marks and blemishes can also heal more quickly. In addition, Vitamin C protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by free radicals, which can damage the skin barrier. An intact skin barrier makes it difficult for bacteria and viruses to penetrate and trigger inflammatory reactions. Vitamin C therefore has multiple effects on blemished skin. 
  • Hyaluron Concentrate and/or aloe vera gel, to provide the skin with light moisture deep down without clogging the pores.
  • Fruit acids - mild Salicylic Acid-peeling with our BHA peeling. It can promote wound healing and prevent the formation of further spots, particularly in the case of blemishes. Due to its fat-soluble properties, it penetrates deep into the pores of the skin, exfoliates them and thus gently removes deposits and dirt. To begin with, 2-3 applications per week are sufficient. Later you can increase to daily. Thanks to its soothing properties, BHA peeling can also be used on sensitive skin or skin prone to redness. However, we still recommend consulting your dermatologist for skin conditions such as rosacea, couperose and neurodermatitis.
  • Retinal cream or serum has a sebum-regulating effect and noticeably supports the regeneration of the skin. Here too, it is recommended to start with an application interval of approx. 2-3 x week and then slowly increase.
  • For spot care of pimples, I recommend the Spot cream. It specifically dries out pimples and promotes the healing process so that the skin gets rid of the inflammation as quickly as possible and can once again perform its full protective function. 

  • For occasional relaxation for your skin and soul, you can use the Clay Mask use. It works anti-inflammatory, balances sebum production and acts as a gentle peeling when gently rinse-off in circular movements. This washes away excess sebum and flakes of skin at the same time. 

And since our products are unisex, they can of course help men and boys just as well. 

Click here to go directly to our products. 

Be careful with pregnancy acne or when breastfeeding. Retinal products are not permitted here and I would also refrain from using fruit acid peels. I would definitely recommend consulting a dermatologist here!

5 What improvement can I really expect from care products?

I am convinced and have already seen that we can make a difference with the right care. But hand on heart: that alone will probably not be enough to permanently combat acne. 

As I mentioned earlier, it is important to look at the body as a whole. To realize that acne does not depend on just one factor, but can have many causes.

Especially when we start to live in such a way that our body is a holistic system, we have the chance to find out the actual causes and really achieve a change in depth.  

That's why the success of a treatment or care depends on the severity of the acne, the condition of your skin, your diet and your stress level. It is important to stick with it and patiently try out different things to find out what really works for you. 

6 My personal tips for you

As always, your diet is a big factor that affects your skin and can therefore also help fight acne. In addition to drinking plenty of fluids, a low blood sugar level helps. You can minimize fluctuations in blood sugar levels with a low glycemic index (GI). In other words, foods that increase blood sugar levels should be removed from your plate. This includes foods with refined sugar or wheat.

You've probably often heard that dairy products can promote blemishes and acne. In fact, cow's milk products and whey protein promote inflammation and can also affect hormone balance. As described above, these are precisely the triggers of hormone-induced acne. Goat's and sheep's milk, on the other hand, are generally better for you and your skin. It is also important to eat a nutrient-rich and anti-inflammatory diet in the form of omega-3 fatty acids instead of omega-6.

In addition to the general tips, such as avoiding sugar and dairy products, which can be very effective, I have also had very good experiences with high doses of Zinc . Namely Zinc for ingestion. It supports your immune system and works from the inside out anti-inflammatory! Make sure that this is a good preparation that is free from fillers and unnecessary additives. Then this dietary supplement can support you on your way to clearer skin.

Monk's pepper plant

In addition Monk's pepper, also known as Agnus Castus, is a great plant medium, which has been very well researched and has a balancing effect, especially in women with hormonal fluctuations, and can therefore also bring the skin back into balance. Monk's pepper can be particularly helpful after stopping the pill!

Of course, it wouldn't be a blog article from me if I didn't end by referring to the sun screen at the end. I know that it's very difficult to find a suitable sunscreen, especially if you want to use mineral filters. If you have any experiences here, I'm all ears! :-)

Concluding words

Finally, I would just like to remind you once again that for acne prone skin is a skin condition. A condition that can be changed. Yes, our genes may dictate that we have a tendency to develop acne, but I am solid convinced that we have enough leverage to bring about an improvement. Nothing is set in stone and there is always the possibility to change something for the better. 

Your attitude and your attitude towards yourself and your skin is what really matters! I can only say it again and again: persevere, be patient and use this journey to get to know yourself better. Meet yourself with a good feeling and take the pressure off yourself. 

You are so much more than just your skin. Toni from mutausbrueche (you can see her on the cover picture) has found beautiful words to say about this. Check us out here on Instagram and let her inspire you. She definitely touched me a lot. 

All the love


Sources

1 https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Acne_vulgaris open 01.09.20

2 2nd edition, Elsässer Sabine, Körperpflegekunde und Kosmetik, Springer Medizin Verlag Heidelberg 2008

3 Ranzato E, Martinotti S, Burlando B. Wound healing properties of jojoba liquid wax: an in vitro study. J Ethnopharmacol. 2011;134(2):443-449. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2010.12.042