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AHA, BHA, PHA - Effect and application of hydroxy acids
Lena
PHA, BHA, AHA - With so many similar-sounding abbreviations, it's time for an article that explains the differences and benefits of the various hydroxy acids. And if you've stumbled across this term too - don't worry, we'll start at the very beginning with the basics!
Here is an overview of the products covered in this article:
Hydroxy acid - What is it?
If you spend a lot of time with skincare, then you probably already know what the abbreviations AHA, BHA and PHA stand for or have at least heard of them before. I'll repeat a few facts here for the sake of completeness:
PHA stands for poly-hydroxy acid. It is the mildest variant of the three hydroxy acids, which is why it is suitable for daily use in the form of our facial toner, even for sensitive skin. In addition to its gentle exfoliating effect, it moisturizes and can strengthen the skin barrier.
BHA stands for beta-hydroxyacid (hydroxy acid), better known as Salicylic Acid. As it is fat-soluble, it can penetrate deep into the pores and dissolve sebum and deposits.
AHA stands for alpha-hydroxyacid (alpha-hydroxy acid) and is one of the water-soluble acids that can refine the skin structure.
We will explain the difference here and for which purposes you should use which product later in the text Tone
AHA, BHA, PHA What do I have to pay attention to when using them?
Acetylsalicylic acid allergy
If you are allergic to acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin), you should generally stay away from products containing salicylic acid. As the name suggests, these two substances are closely related and can have unpleasant side effects. You should be aware of this.
Hydroxy acids in the skincare routine
Our BHA, AHA and PHA products are best used in the evening, as they work best during the skin's night-time regeneration phase. The beauty of this leave-on peeling? You can simply continue the steps of your personal skincare routine after you have applied the BHA peeling . However, there are a few little things to bear in mind:
- Allow AHA, BHA and PHA to absorb well before applying cream, an oil or serum .
- Avoid the eye area during application. For the PHA toner , we therefore recommend spraying it onto a cotton pad first and then distributing to face .
- If you use the Niacinamide serum , do not apply it together with the BHA or AHA peeling in the same routine. To allow your skin to get used to the highly concentrated Actives , we recommend using BHA in the evening and Niacinamide in the morning.
- If you want to use retinal products or are already doing so, it is important to give your skin enough time to get used to the new BHA peeling . Start with a low application frequency and increase it slowly - this will allow your skin to adapt optimally.
BHA, PHA and rosacea & neurodermatitis
Especially with particularly sensitive skin, as is the case with neurodermatitis and rosacea, caution is always advised when testing new products. And when the word peeling or acid appears in a product name, it naturally puts people off at first.
In the case of BHA and PHA , however, this is not necessarily true. Because BHA can anti-inflammatory Treat and is particularly well tolerated. And if this is still a little too intense for you, you can switch to PHA - even gentler on the skin and therefore also worth a try for sensitive skin.
Of course, you still need to be careful when using them. We generally recommend that you consult your doctor before using new products if you have any skin conditions. If you get the go-ahead for the BHA peeling or the PHA toner , you should only try it on one area at first and observe how your skin behaves after the first application.
If you tolerate it well, you can start with 1-2 evenings a week and then slowly increase to a maximum of every other evening over the coming weeks. If you have sensitive skin, it is particularly important to introduce the products slowly so that your skin is not overwhelmed and reacts with redness, spots or even a rash.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding
We do not recommend using our hydroxy acids during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. If you would like to know how you can best care for your skin during pregnancy Moisturize , I recommend you read this article.
AHA, BHA or PHA - differences and which one is right for me?
Basically, it can be said that customers with oily, blemished and acne-prone skin should use BHA . Thanks to its liposoluble properties, it cleanses the pores particularly thoroughly and can regulate sebum production. Due to its anti-inflammatory effect, BHA is also suitable for customers with rosacea.
Whereas if you have dry or mature skin , you should prefer the AHA peeling . This is because AHAs help to retain moisture in the skin and thus support a plump, healthy complexion.
PHA in turn, is particularly recommended for sensitive and dehydrated skin. As toner it is suitable for daily use and even very sensitive skin benefits from the moisturizing, protective and gently exfoliating effect.
Here is an overview of the differences:
AHABHA, PHA tips for use
With all three products, it is important to apply them after a thorough and gentle facial cleansing. For a mild but thorough cleansing, we have various products, from Cleansing Oil to gel.
Once your face has been cleansed of dirt and debris, use the BHA or AHA peeling or the PHA toner . Put a few drops of the peeling in your cupped (washed) hand, rub your hands together and apply the peeling thinly to your face and or décolleté.
- Avoid the eye area.
- For the PHA toner , spray a few pumps onto a cotton pad and apply gently to face . Again, leave out the area around the eyes.
- A daily application can be optimal for each individual, but you may also get along well with 2-3 times a week.
You can then continue with your routine as usual. The peeling can also be combined with other products without any problems. However, as described above, care must be taken when using AHA and BHA in combination with Niacinamide serum and the retinal products.
Pay attention to sun screen
If you use a chemical peeling , whether PHA, AHA or BHA, always apply a sun screen during the day. Removing dead skin cells reveals young, fresh cells that are particularly sensitive to UV radiation. A good sun screen helps to Protect the skin and keep it healthy in the long term.
The important points summarized once again:
- Slowly get the skin used to it (at the beginning 1-2x per week)
- after the cleanser apply
- let it soak in
- simply continue with another routine
- Can be easily combined with other products
- Application frequency as needed daily or 2-3 times a week
- sun screen do not forget
- Not suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding
I hope I have now been able to introduce you to these wonderful products and show you which one is right for you and your skin.
Sources
3 Acne vulgaris - AMBOSS. (2020). Anvil. https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Acne_vulgaris
4 Psoriasis vulgaris - AMBOSS. (n.d.-a). Anvil. Retrieved January 12, 2021, from https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Psoriasis_vulgaris
5 Please be patient! (2020, January 26). DAZ.online. https://www.deutsche-apotheker-zeitung.de/daz-az/2014/daz-21-2014/bitte-geduld