Product development

FROM THE IDEA TO THE
BOTTLE

HOW WE DEVELOP OUR PRODUCTS

Discover the background to our product development and find out how the process from the initial idea to the finished product in the bottle actually works. All products are developed and supervised by our product team so that you receive the best possible care for your skin.

THE SELECTION OF Actives

Our product development starts with our team attending regular meetings to gather feedback and requests from our customers as well as the latest active ingredient trends and studies on the market. The information obtained is then compared with our portfolio to find out where there is new potential. This allows us to constantly expand and review our range and find out which Actives products suit us best. The collected options are then recorded in a product concept, which serves as the objective for the new product.

WHAT SHOULD THE PRODUCT BE ABLE TO DO?

After analyzing our product portfolio, we first decide what effect our new product should have. Taking Azelaic acid as an example: it should be able to treat blemishes and oily skin Treat, but also calming and be used for rosacea.

WHICH MAIN ACTIVE INGREDIENTS ACHIEVE THIS EFFECT?

Using trend analysis, new developments on the market in particular can be included here in order to determine the essential Actives for the product. E.g. Azelaic acid and Zinc as the optimal combination.

HOW DOES IT DIFFER FROM OTHER PRODUCTS?

In this step, we check exactly how the idea fits in with our existing products. In the case of the Azelaic acid serum, we checked whether we already have a product that works against blemishes, that helps with very oily skin or that could be used specifically for rosacea.

WHICH TEXTURE SHOULD IT HAVE?

The right Texture is crucial for many products, as ease of application is particularly important here. In the example of the Azelaic acid serum, the Texture should match our serums and not be too thick, easy to spread and quickly absorbed.

THE CREATION OF A PRODUCT CONCEPT

USING THE EXAMPLE OF THE AZELAIC ACID SERUM

HOW DOES IT FEEL ON THE SKIN?

All products have a different appearance on the skin and feel different. Some leave a light protective film, provide a beautiful sheen or are particularly rich. In the case of the Azelaic acid serum, the product should be mattifying on the skin.

HOW SHOULD IT BE PACKAGED?

This is about the type of bottle and the removal of the product. We ask ourselves how the product can best and most intuitively be removed while remaining stable. For example, it should work well with a pipette.

FOR WHICH SKIN TYPES IS IT SUITABLE?

When it comes to targeted skin care, your skin type is the most important factor for us. We therefore determine your skin's exact needs in advance and compare them with the known characteristics in order to make a precise recommendation for you and offer suitable care for every skin type. For example, Azelaic acid serum is suitable for oily skin and combination skin .

HOW DOES IT FEEL ON THE SKIN?

HOW SHOULD IT BE PACKAGED?

FOR WHICH SKIN TYPES IS IT SUITABLE?

A RECIPE IS CREATED

Once the product concept has been finalized, the first step is to prepare the development in the laboratory. The required raw materials are searched for, compared with our defined decision criteria, selected and ordered. Among other things, we check whether the raw materials are available regionally or in organic quality. As soon as the ingredients have arrived, an initial recipe is written. Our product team uses the recipe to test various options to see how the formulation fits together and whether the product works as intended. They then create the first samples, which are tested according to internal standards as well as their Texture and application behavior. Once the first samples have been approved by the laboratory, they are sent to the product team, who carry out initial testing before passing them on internally to volunteers. Here we then give detailed feedback to the development team about the texture, skin feel and our general impression of the product. Based on this feedback, initial revisions are made to the formulation. In the case of Azelaic acid serum , for example, the formulation was adjusted six times following the internal feedback, as the effect was right but the team was not yet happy with the texture.

TESTING IN THE LABORATORY AND BY EXTERNAL BODIES

Once the first samples have passed internal testing and have been approved by the product team, they are sent to external partners for compatibility testing and to our laboratory for stability testing. The three-month stability test focuses on temperature tests at 20°C, 40°C and 5°C as well as under UV light. In addition, the samples are placed in a so-called rocking cabinet, where they are additionally tested after 12 hours at 40°C and 12 hours at -5°C. In addition to the internal test in the laboratory, the product is officially tested by Dermatest explicitly on sensitive skin for its tolerability. For us, the tolerance of our products is crucial to ensure the most pleasant experience possible with our products.

Comparison table

THE PRODUCT FAILS:

The product does not withstand temperature fluctuations
The ingredients separate from each other and the texture is changed
Not compatible with sensitive skin

THE PRODUCT CONSISTS OF

The product remains stable over a period of 3 months and withstands temperature fluctuations from -5° to 40° Celsius
The product does not change its texture, potency or other compositions during this period
The product passes a Dermatest test on sensitive skin with at least a good grade

ORDERING THE NECESSARY RESOURCES

Once the stability test has been passed, the process for ordering packaging and raw materials is initiated. First, the packaging materials are designed, availability is checked and all documents and certificates of conformity are requested. The layouts are then handed over to the glass and printing company for the folding cartons. This is followed by a test print which, once approved, leads to a fixed delivery date. The raw materials required for the production of the new product are also checked for availability and delivery times. This step is particularly important, as there is always a risk of delivery delays, which can later mean that the product cannot be launched on time or only in small quantities. Once the raw materials have been ordered, a pilot run is planned to test whether the formulation behaves in the same way on a larger scale as it does in small laboratory quantities. After successful approval, production can begin.

INSPECTION OF THE DELIVERED GOODS

Once production has started, further tests are carried out to check the quality of the goods in detail at various points before delivery. This includes a microbiological test of the bulk and a detailed examination of the first finished product samples. The goods are only released for delivery if all standards are met.

THE PRODUCT IS MARKETED

Marketing planning for the product begins as soon as it has passed the stability test. From the moment we have the first product samples and packaging, photo shoots and video shoots can take place, which then run on the product pages and in our advertising campaigns. Extensive staff training will also take place so that all employees are fully informed about the effect of the product and can answer your questions. In addition, a message and marketing strategy is defined, which determines which effect statements we emphasize in particular in the context of skin types or other products. Finally, all channels prepare the content for the day of the product launch. The social media, product, influencer marketing, communication, performance marketing, CRM, design and store teams work closely together to ensure a smooth process for the launch of the new product.