well-aging Myths: Actives, light protection & Co.

mature skin requires more intensive care: more moisture, balanced lipids and Actives, which boost collagen production and strengthen the skin barrier. There are many myths in skincare, especially when it comes to caring for mature skin. And unfortunately, this is also associated with a lot of stigma.
Fine lines, pigmentation spots, sagging skin... signs of ageing are often experienced as small (or even bigger) shock moments when you first discover them when you look in the mirror. We are annoyed by something that happens naturally, some sooner, some later. We often perceive the visibility of ageing as a problem and we are already attracted to tubes and jars with the promise of "anti-ageing". This is despite the fact that nothing in this world can really prevent skin ageing. And already we feel bad because we seem to be expected to collect more "anti-" in our bathroom cabinet with every birthday, reminding us every morning and every evening how we should feel about our wrinkles, pigmentation spots and sagging skin.

Before we get into the cosmetic myths surrounding the topic of ageing, I would like to start with what is probably the most important "myth":

Myth: "Signs of skin ageing are unsightly and must be stopped."

BULLSHIT (Sorry, not sorry). Getting older and noticing it to face and on your body is 100% normal and manifests itself differently in all of us. But: it manifests itself in all of us. The body changes visually over the course of our lives. This can also be seen on the skin.
The main reason for caring for mature skin should be to keep our largest organ healthy and ensure that it can fulfill its natural functions for as long as possible. For example, it is important to stabilize the collagen scaffold to keep the skin barrier fit and to supply lipids and moisture to retain them. The aim is to be better protected against external environmental influences. For us, this is not anti-aging, but well-aging, the good and healthy form of aging. Because: well-groomed skin should always be important.

Myth: "Retinol / Retinal is only for mature skin."

Retinoids are primarily known because they are very effective and well-researched ingredients in skin care for mature skin . However, they are not only beneficial for mature or maturing skin. Blemish-prone skin in particular also benefits greatly from the regulating effect on sebum production, which is particularly good for people with oily skin and even acne.

By promoting cell renewal and stimulating collagen production, Retinol can help to make skin look smoother, fresher and more even, even from your mid-20s. This is because our skin actually begins to lose its elasticity and retain less moisture in the skin from our mid-20s. This is because the enzyme collagenase, which inhibits collagen synthesis, becomes active at this time, while at the same time collagen production slowly decreases.
Adapted, dosed care with Retinal, such as in our Retinal Sensitiv serum or our Retinal cream, helps the skin to retain its elasticity and resilience over the years, as it stimulates collagen synthesis and inhibits this nasty enzyme. This keeps the collagen structure stable for longer and moisture can be stored better.

Myth: "sensitive skin does not tolerate retinoids"

Wrong. Retinal in particular is basically suitable for all skin types. This is because it is closest to retinoic acid in the retinoid conversion chain. In the skin, retinyl ester, such as retinyl palmitate, is first converted to Retinol, then to retinal and then to retinoic acid.

However, it always depends on the concentration and the correct application. If you have very sensitive skin , you should start with the mildest possible dosage. Once the skin has become accustomed to the active ingredient, the frequency of application and even the concentration can be slowly increased.

Myth: Skin care products Treat no longer work after a certain time, as the skin has become accustomed to them

This is not true. The skin needs around four weeks to get used to new products and Actives and then to be able to "process" them. Initially, the skin may even experience an initial aggravation before it has become accustomed to the active ingredient.
The skin just loves routines - just like us humans.
A product that is used over a longer period of time can therefore be absorbed and "utilized" much better by the skin. This is why Treat care products that have been used for some time are even better.
When it comes to the dosage of active ingredients, you can also increase the dose over time if you notice that your skin tolerates the product well, but perhaps you would like a stronger effect.

Myth: "Retinoids make the skin thinner"

This is actually completely wrong! Retinoids stimulate skin renewal and remove dead cells from the outer skin layer more quickly. This is why many people believe that the skin can become thinner and more sensitive in the long term. But the exact opposite is the case: retinoids actually boost collagen production. This means a more stable skin structure and more even and firmer skin.

Myth: "Retinoids Treat by exfoliating the skin"

Here we follow on from the previous myth. And say: That's not true again. Retinoids do not have an exfoliating effect. Exfoliation is rather a side effect of the skin's irritation process. Unlike exfoliants, retinoids do not break the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. However, due to the increased cell renewal, fresh skin cells come to the surface more quickly - which can actually be mistaken for a peeling effect, but is not really one.

Myth: "Retinol should not be used in summer"

Retinoids can certainly be used in summer. However, they are very demanding Actives: they are UV-sensitive and their mode of action is significantly impaired by light. This is why these products are more suitable for the evening routine, as our skin regenerates at night. As retinoids stimulate cell renewal, among other things, young cells reach the skin's surface more quickly. That is why you should always use a sun screen with the highest possible SPF should always be used during the day. And this applies both in summer and winter. 

Myth: "Retinal products do not lighten hyperpigmentation as they make the skin more sensitive to light"

We follow on from what we have just learned: Products containing retinal make the skin more sensitive to light, which is why we should diligently use sun screen every morning. Vitamin A-based products boost cell renewal in the skin by stimulating the production of new skin cells. This process then helps to remove dead skin cells more quickly, which can lead to a more even skin tone. Melanin is the pigment responsible for skin color. Retinoids can therefore inhibit melanin production, which helps to reduce hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Retinoids also promote collagen production by positively influencing collagen synthesis, which leads to improved skin structure and elasticity. This means that Retinol can actually help to improve the appearance of pigmentation spots.

Myth: "Only prescription tretinoin really works"

To explain: Tretinoin, or retinoic acid, is a potent and well-researched form of vitamin A with a medicinal effect and therefore requires a prescription. However, over-the-counter derivatives such as retinal and Retinol also have advantages. As they are also converted to tretinoin in the skin, they are widely used in skin care. But why not tretinoin? One advantage of derivatives is that they are generally more stable and better tolerated. As a result, they cause fewer side effects such as dryness, redness or flaking. Biochemically speaking, you can achieve the same effect with vitamin A derivatives in cosmetics - it just takes a little longer.

well-aging needs the right care and the right attitude

Skin care doesn't have to be complicated. And it certainly doesn't have to cause problems that don't actually exist. Wrinkles and sagging skin are completely normal with increasing age. And somehow it is also a merit that life's experiences and circumstances eventually make themselves felt on the skin. Perhaps we can learn to celebrate the fact that we see our age. And look forward to getting older in a more relaxed way, without any shame or pressure to prevent it. With the name "well-aging" for our products, we clearly stand for more serenity - especially when it comes to skincare.


Sources:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28853960/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37375394/
https://www.livivo.de/doc/M37615835