2. how microplastics are hidden in Haircare

Watch out when buying hair care! Since October 2023, the use of so-called microbeads, small plastic beads that have an abrasive effect, has been banned. Unfortunately, there are still far too many products and manufacturers that use the liquid version of microplastics in their products. This is a huge issue, especially at Haircare . Liquid microplastics, so-called synthetic water-soluble polymers, give the hair a well-groomed, smooth feeling after washing because they wrap themselves around the scaly hair structure like a smoothing coat. However, this does not care for anything! What's more, they are cheap raw materials, especially compared to truly nourishing pure oils and nourishing active ingredients. BUT Life in Plastic ain't fantastic - above all because the liquid microplastics cannot be filtered out in sewage treatment plants and therefore inevitably end up in the groundwater and the entire cycle. 

I have listed different types of solid and liquid microplastics here. Feel free to take a screenshot! Maybe it will help you on your discovery tour through the INCI world in your bathroom cabinet.

• Sodium Laureth Sulfate
• Polyquaternium (often associated with a number, e.g. polyquaternium 10)
• Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer
• PEG (polyethylene glycol)
• Polyethylene (PE)
• Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)
• Polystyrene (PS)
  
  

Be sure to pay attention to certain endings or word components of ingredients:

• Carbomer
• Crosspolymer
• Copolymer
• ending -eth
• Polyquaternium
• Ending acrylates
  
  

By the way: The use of solid microplastics for products that can be washed off or rinsed out directly, such as Haircare or shower products, will not be banned until October 17, 2027.

This has always applied to us: We avoid all forms of microplastics in all our cosmetics.

3. silicones - even more strain on nature

Unfortunately, the chapter on environmentally harmful ingredients is not over yet. It continues with silicones. They are popular because they are a cost-effective substitute for natural oils . However, they are not very effective in skin care. They seal the skin, which for acne prone skin and impurities can cause even more severe pore blockages and inflammatory reactions. This also applies to hair, only here the sealant provides shine and smoothness, but without any care. However, silicones also weigh the hair down in the long term, can cause greasy roots and increase the formation of dandruff. As silicones are of synthetic origin, they are difficult to break down once they enter the environment. And this happens particularly quickly via shower products and Haircare . 

You may be wondering why such substances are allowed to be used in everyday products at all. This is because, unfortunately, they often produce exactly the desired effects or at least give the impression of doing so.

Here again is a brief overview of the INCI designations of silicones:

• Dimethicone(s)
• D4 (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane)
• D5 (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane)
• Amodimethicone
• Dimethiconol
• INCIs with the endings "-con(e)" or "-xan(e)"
  
  

If you ask me, I'd rather have a product that I can put on my body with a clear conscience and then flush down the drain. Without compromising on the effect!  

4. keep an eye out for preservatives

Let's move on to the next critical ingredient groups: Parabens, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate. These are among the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetic products. Yet they are not even good for the skin - on the contrary: they can lead to allergic reactions, skin irritation and unwanted skin abnormalities. But what exactly are parabens, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate?

Parabens:

Parabens are a group of synthetic chemicals that are often used as preservatives in facial and hair care products. They are used to extend the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of bacteria, molds and yeasts. That actually sounds pretty good - but some studies have suggested that parabens may trigger some estrogenic activity in the body. This means that our hormonal balance and endocrine system could be affected by parabens.

Parabens are therefore anything but harmless, especially if they are regularly absorbed over large areas of the skin - for example in the form of body lotions. 

This is why we also question the use of Haircare , even if the products are washed out. 

Here are frequently used parabens that you should definitely look out for on an INCI list: 

• Butylparaben
• Methylparaben
• Ethylparaben
• Butylparaben
• Propylparaben
• Isopropylparaben
• Isobutylparaben
• Pentyl paraben
• Benzylparaben
• Phenylparaben
• Metagin
• Propagin
• Oxybenzoic acid/oxybezoate
• Hydroxybezoic acid/hydroxybenzoate
• PHB
• Parahydroxybenzoate
  
  

If you would like to know more about parabens, I recommend this article to read. Here we go deeper into the topic of preservatives in cosmetic products.

Sodium benzoate: 

Also known as sodium benzoate, it is the sodium salt of benzoic acid, an organic acid. Like parabens, it is also a widely used preservative in cosmetic products to prevent the development of microorganisms and extend the shelf life of products. So far so good. But in fact (as expected), this ingredient also hides some reports and studies indicating that sodium benzoate could cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. Symptoms such as redness, swelling, itching or other allergic reactions could occur more frequently when using this preservative. And we want to avoid this at all costs! Because the skin should only receive the ingredients it needs. And sodium benzoate is definitely not one of them.

Potassium sorbate:

Also a preservative. On INCI lists it can also be recognized as potassium sorbate, which can lead to hypersensitivity reactions of the skin. Potassium sorbate has an antimicrobial and preservative effect and is the potassium salt of sorbic acid, also an organic acid. However, this preservative also has some downsides: It could be the reason for intolerances and allergic reactions such as burning, skin rashes or itchy redness. To make our products as compatible as possible, we do not use it. :) 

Long story short: when developing our Haircare (and of course our skincare), we deliberately decided against parabens, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, as there are far better and safer preservatives. 

5. sulfates - aggressive surfactants in care products

You've probably heard of sulphates before. Sulphates are salts or esters of sulphuric acid that occur naturally as chemical compounds or are produced synthetically. Due to their properties, sulphates are particularly popular in the manufacture of cleansing products for skin and hair:

• Cleaning effect: Sulphates have a strong cleansing effect and are very reliable in their action. They can effectively remove oils from skin and hair and Treat also have an emulsifying effect. This means that they are able to mix water and oil so that the cleansing product can thoroughly remove both oils and dirt.
• Foaming: If your shampoo foams particularly well, it is often due to sulphates. This is because they create a stable, pleasant foam - which is often perceived as an indicator of the cleansing effect.
• Common ingredient: The manufacturing process of a product with sulphates is easier and, above all, much cheaper than natural surfactants.
  
  

Doesn't sound so bad? The downside of the effect should not be underestimated.

Sulphates Treat are very drying and can cause irritation as they also tend to remove natural oils from the skin and hair. Some studies even report an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This is not a good effect, especially for sensitive or dry scalps. Allergies can even develop over a longer period of time. And as the foam does not only touch the scalp when shampooing, the facial skin can also be affected. 

The environmental impact should not be forgotten - because the production and disposal of products containing sulphates damages our environment. Sulphates are released into waste water via rinse-off from shampoo , polluting water bodies and threatening aquatic habitats. In addition, sulphates are often used together with PEGs in cleansing products to improve the texture - but they also have a very irritating effect and are extremely harmful to our wastewater. This is how liquid microplastics end up in our waters. And that is anything but harmless!

Most commonly used in cosmetic products are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate and coco sulphates are most commonly used in cosmetic products. So if you see these INCIs on the back of a shampoo, you should be vigilant. Because nobody wants dry skin or hair, possible skin irritation and environmental pollution.

So, a big NO to these aggressive surfactants. Especially when there are compatible and wonderfully cleansing alternatives: Plant-based surfactants or sugar surfactants, for example. 

6. hair hero hyaluron

Hyaluronic acid for the hair? Definitely! Hyaluronic acid is a wonderful active ingredient that not only provides our skin with intensive moisture. The hair structure also benefits from products containing hyaluronic acid. A fallacy that is often assumed for both skin and hair is that dryness can be remedied with oils. Yes, lipids are very important to keep the skin barrier (including on the scalp) intact. In the end, this helps to keep moisture in the layers of the skin, but does not introduce moisture into the skin. This is what aloe vera or hyaluronic acid does. The molecules bind water and, depending on the size of the acid molecule, channel it into the deep layers of the skin or hair, where it is stored. A good combination of moisturizers and lipid donors is therefore required for a stable moisture balance. And this also applies to the hair. Bye bye, dry ends! 

7. vegan Keratin-Power for the hair structure

Protein, protein, protein. It's a topic that comes up every day, and not just in the fitness community. In Haircare , the body's own protein Keratin has received more and more attention in recent years. It is naturally an important building block of the hair structure. And here, too, the situation is similar to that of the skin: if these building blocks are damaged, the hair becomes dry, brittle and dull. When we treat our hair with keratin-containing products Moisturize, we give it strength, repair damage to the hair structure and restore suppleness to the hair lengths. The scaly hair structure is smooth and even - as can be seen in the microscope image above. 

Is Keratin always vegan?

Keratin is not necessarily vegan. Traditionally, it is obtained from animal substances. "Phyto" means plant-based. The prefix is used to indicate when substances that are usually of animal origin are obtained from plants. Phyto-Keratin is therefore actually vegan and, for us, naturally the form of Keratin that we use in our hair care line. Our phyto-Keratin is obtained from lentil, chickpea and quinoa extract, which contain many of the essential and semi-essential amino acids that make up Keratin , such as arginine, L-cystine, L-methionine, etc. 

By the way: Keratin is not to be confused with creatine. Here we close the circle and go back to the substances for athletes. Creatine is significantly involved in energy metabolism in the muscles - a completely different job to Keratin. 

8. why conditioner belongs in your hair routine

I don't know about you, but for years I doubted the point of conditioner . Hair mask? Yes, it has time to soak in and the Actives can have a positive effect on the hair. But a conditioner stays in my hair for as long as it takes to distribute it. shower gel to distribute it. 

What can I say, now that I've really got to grips with the subject of Haircare , I've been proven wrong. And if you have similar doubts, perhaps I can convince you in the following lines. 

Think of it like this: For your Skincare , you start with a product that cleanses your skin. You have removed dirt and excess sebum. Maybe your skin feels a little less "nourished". For the hair, this is the shampoo step: The cleanser. As you have already read in the first section above, warm water expands the hair structure, allowing nutrients to be washed out. The hair must therefore be supplied with these nutrients again. Some shampoos already contain some of them. But only conditioner contains the richness that builds up and "seals" the hair through oils, lipids and moisturizers, for example. If we go back to the comparison with Skincare , conditioner would be the step in the routine where you care for the skin's protective layer with cream or a facial oil.

conditioner are a wonderful medium to provide your hair with targeted active ingredients that support your individual hair structure. The same principle as for skin care. Dry, curly or wavy hair? Hyaluron, Keratin and Argan Oil. Flat hair, with quickly greasy roots? Coffeine Apple cider vinegar and rice starch. Flaky and dry scalp? Panthenol, Almond Oil and sodium PCA and no irritating substances.

Are you convinced?