The product for well-aging: sun screen

This time it's about one of my favorite topics, sun screen. Yes, it is probably one of the most discussed topics of all. And rightly so, in my opinion! Especially now that summer is just around the corner, sun cream is getting a real boost in attention. There really is hardly any other product, especially in skincare, that is as important as the right protection against UV radiation! 

You may have already found out a lot about this topic yourself, but I would still like to summarize all the important facts here and give you an insight into the current study situation. Because there are so many things on the internet etc. that are simply passed on and not questioned. As always, my motto is: make yourself an expert and don't believe everything you're told.

And sun screen, the right filters, from when, what, how, where, this is really as hotly debated as the sun itself. That's why you can find out here:

• What UV radiation is and what it does to our skin 
• How it is responsible for our vitamin D levels and still causes damage
• When and why we need sun screen
• What types of filters are available and how they work
• The connection between sun creams and our coral reefs 
• And how to apply sun cream correctly 

What is UV radiation?

UV radiation is a range of optical radiation and has a wavelength of 100 - 400 nm. It is therefore directly connected to the visible light spectrum. Due to its physical properties, UV radiation can be further divided into 3 groups 

UV-A with a wavelength of 400 - 315 nm (long wave) 

UV-B with a wavelength of 315 - 280 nm (short-wave) 

UV-C with a wavelength of 280 - 100 nm (very short-wave) 

Fig.1 

I have created a small overview here to give you a better idea of how the rays reach us on earth. As you can see in Fig. 1, the UV-C rays are not particularly relevant for us thanks to the ozone layer. UV-A and UV-B, on the other hand, are. Around 10 % of UV-B rays and almost 100 % of UV-A rays reach us on Earth. 

The longer the wavelength of the rays, the less energy they have. Accordingly, UV-A rays are lower in energy than UV-B rays. [1]

But what do UV rays actually do to our skin? UV aging and UV burns! 

So one thing is clear solid: UV radiation is without a doubt Enemy No. 1 when it comes to our skin health. It drives skin ageing, destroys important structures of our connective tissue and even changes the genetic material of our cells. UV-A rays, for example, penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and form the well-known free radicals! These destroy the supporting collagen in our skin and also prevent its regeneration. Even the elastin fibers change. It is therefore understandable that the elasticity and flexibility of the skin is lost. 

I remember only too well the tanned, slightly older ladies and gentlemen on vacation in Italy that I used to marvel at as a child. The wrinkles all over their bodies could usually be seen from afar. 

What is even more serious, however, is that these free radicals can also alter the genetic material of the cells. In addition to this, the skin also loses its ability to repair itself. This, in combination with damage to the DNA, ultimately and in the worst case scenario, leads to skin cancer. [11]

In summary, UV-A-rays therefore cause

• Photoaaging and thus premature wrinkling,
• but also pigmentation disorders, 
• Sun allergy 
• and skin cancer

While UVB-rays are confined to the outer layers of our skin and are mainly absorbed by the skin.

• Sunbedge, hyperpigmentation,
• allergic reactions 
• and also cause skin cancer  

The damage caused by UV-B rays is therefore much more obvious than that caused by UV-A rays. Which does not make them any less dangerous. On the contrary.  

Vitamin D production in the skin

But UV radiation also has its good sides. As we all know by now, it helps our skin to produce a vitamin that is very important for us. Namely vitamin D. 

Vitamin D is so essential for us because it significantly influences the calcium and phosphate balance in the body and thus affects bone mineralization. Apart from this, it also has a hand in the intestines, muscle function and our immune system. (12) The physiology of our skin is also inextricably linked to the production and activity of vitamin D. (13)

And how does UV radiation do that now? 

We have a kind of precursor of vitamin D in our skin, the so-called provitamin D3 (also known as 7-dehydrocholesterol for those who are interested), which we simply produce ourselves in our liver. Quite well, actually. The UV-B rays now manage to split this molecule using their energy and cholecalciferol is formed, which we know as vitamin D3. [12] Of course, this process is much more complex and is far from complete. But the details are beyond the scope of this article and are not entirely relevant to the topic sun screen. 

It is important to know that vitamin D is the only vitamin that we get from food, but our body can also produce it itself! 

Of course the question arises here: Does sun screen affect my vitamin D level? 

Yes and no. 

Although previous studies have shown that apply from sun screen can influence the formation of vitamin D in the skin, the conditions of these studies were not adapted to normal conditions. For example, artificial UV light was used, which differs in its composition from terrestrial sunlight. 

In addition, several field trials and observational studies have not confirmed a link between sunscreen use and declining vitamin D levels. [4][5]

Quite apart from that, we don't do UV protection for fun, but Protect to protect ourselves from skin cancer. So this type of prevention is super important! The fear of a vitamin D deficiency should definitely not stop us from using sunscreen. The benefits of protection and prevention are greater than the suspicion of vitamin D deficiency. 

Of course, anyone who avoids or has to avoid the sun completely, wears long clothing and rarely leaves the house can easily slip into deficiency. 

It is therefore advisable to keep an eye on your vitamin D levels. If you think you may be suffering from a deficiency, it is best to have your blood tested. This is because vitamin D can be easily supplied to the body via food supplements.    

Fig. 2

And how is an ideal sun screen structured? 

Now that it is clear that we need sun screen , it is equally important to find and, in our case, create the right sunscreen.

From the information we have gone through together so far, you can be sure that a sun screen is absolutely protected against UV-A and UV-B rays Protect . It should also be photostable, water and sweat resistant and, in my opinion, have an SPF of at least 30. I'll explain why later. And, of course, it should also not endanger your own health (not trigger allergies) and not pollute our environment.

In order to address these topics in more detail, I will briefly explain the differences between the various filter systems here! 

UV filters - organic and inorganic

The filters in sun creams are usually divided into "chemical = bad and mineral or physical = good" filters. 

Unfortunately, this is not entirely correct. Because if we take a closer look at the filters, they are actually all "chemical". Chemistry is a science that deals with the relationships between substances, i.e. with everything that surrounds us. :) 

And that does not exclude minerals. Unfortunately, the word "chemistry" has a rather unpleasant connotation and is therefore often used to make processes, things and substances appear worse than they actually are. 

This also means that the ingredients known as "chemical filters" are often lumped together and labeled as "bad". Of course, there are reasons for this, which we should not ignore. Hormone activity and its contribution to the death of our coral reefs Nevertheless, it makes sense to take a closer look at the individual substances and not to generalize! 

It therefore makes more sense to divide the filters into organic and inorganic! 

Everything organic, i.e. plants, animals and of course us humans, consists of molecules based on carbon. Whereas inorganic substances are made up of mineral atoms, i.e. inorganic atoms such as titanium and Zinc . 

What organic/chemical filters are there? And how do they work?

This group of filters includes octinoxate (UV-B), salicylates (UV-B) and benzophenones (UV-A). The UV radiation is absorbed by these molecules in the filter. The incoming energy is released via mechanisms such as fluorescence, photoreactions or redistribution of energy within the molecule. 

Some representatives of this group are said to have negative effects on our bodies, but also on the environment. Filters such as oxybenzone and octinoxate in particular give rise to concerns about bleaching coral reefs and decimating algae, which produce much of the oxygen we breathe. Hawaii will ban the use of such sunscreen filters in January 2021 in response to the real or perceived threat. [6]

What inorganic/mineral filters are there? And how do they work? 

Only two representatives are currently permitted here, in which the inorganic atoms form a compound with oxygen (oxide): 

Zinc oxide (INCI Zinc Oxide) and titanium dioxide (INCI Titanium Dioxide). 

Both filters are whitish powder, which are difficult to dissolve and disperse in water. This is where the "whitening effect", which we are all familiar with, comes from, which sun creams with these filters unfortunately bring with them. For a long time, it was claimed that this type of filter tends to reflect and scatter the sun's rays. Unlike their organic counterparts, which do this through absorption. However, a study from 2016 showed that mineral filters also absorb the majority of UV rays. [9]

In addition, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide molecules do not break down, thus triggering fewer allergic reactions and are generally better tolerated.

Another reason for us to choose this filter variant for our sunscreen. 

And what about these nanoparticles? 

I also looked around here for current studies. I came across information from last year. In this study, it was shown that nanoparticles of titanium dioxide were found in the human body after apply application of a corresponding sunscreen. However, the conditions here were also not necessarily typical. The sunscreen was applied for 3 consecutive days and not washed off again. Nevertheless, more detailed investigations are needed in the future. [8]

We at junglück therefore do not use nanoparticles. You won't find any in our products and therefore also in the sun cream!

If you're wondering why we don't have a day cream with SPF, then take a look at the blog article about our day and night cream here. Sophia explains why there! :)

When does sun screen make sense? 

Basically, this is one of the most important points, along with the "how". Because sun screen you should actually apply every day - summer and winter. 

Yes, it's true that UV radiation decreases in winter, but we are still exposed to it often and for long enough, especially to face . 

The intensity of UV radiation on the earth's surface depends on various factors and should never be underestimated: 

• Latitude - the closer to the equator, the more intense 
• Season and time of day - stronger in summer than in winter and stronger at midday than AM and PM (logical) 
• Weather - closed cloud cover retains up to 90 % of the rays but light cloud cover can even intensify them
• Shade - only reduces the radiation by approx. 30%
• Altitude meters - approx. 10 % more radiation per 1000 altitude meters 
• Environment - snow, sand and water reflect and amplify the intensity. [1]

As you can see, UV radiation is everywhere and always at the start. If you want to protect your skin from damage, ageing and disease Protect , an adequate SPF (SPF) is essential!

So sunscreen really is one of the best well-aging products you can imagine and in my opinion belongs in every skincare routine! 

If you are still not sure whether you should use sun screen , you can also rely on the UV index. It describes the daily peak of UV radiation that reaches the earth on a particular day in a particular region. You can find the daily UV index for Germany here and for other countries here.

And from an index of 3 at the latest, sunscreen is the order of the day. 

How do I apply sun screen correctly? 

Almost more important than a high SPF is the HOW! 

This is because you need a certain amount of sun cream to really get the specified UV protection. 

The quantity is often given in tablespoons and teaspoons, which I personally find quite practical because it is easier to visualize. Who always has a scale with them to weigh out the 1.2 g for the face? 

Basically, you need at least one tablespoon of sun cream for each larger part of your body, chest, stomach, arms and legs. Yep, that's a lot. Add another half a teaspoon for the face. 

It is often recommended to apply the amount of cream in layers so that the product has time to absorb and does not stick to the body all at once. This can often be very unpleasant, especially with mineral filters. 

Which SPF should I use?

With regard to SPF, I already mentioned that anything less than 30 is hardly worthwhile. 

However, this of course depends on how conscientiously you apply sunscreen. Because if you use less sun cream, the protection will logically decrease. This means that a higher SPF is of course even more effective than if it is already low. 

But your skin type is also crucial. Do you have very fair skin and get sunburnt easily? Then of course you need a stronger sun screen than a person who already has a darker skin tone. 

The melanin in our skin is responsible for this. When our skin tans from the sun, this is a protective mechanism of the melanocytes to deal with damage that has already occurred. If you are interested in this topic in more detail, I would be happy to write another article on this subject, which deals with the Tanning of the skin and the different skin types. 

Finally...

Finally, I would just like to remind you once again how important it is to protect your skin from UV radiation. Please avoid going to the solarium as well as frying in the midday sun on the beach. As nice as it is to come back from vacation with a tan, UV rays cause long-term damage and the effects are usually only felt years later, even if you don't notice them at the moment. In addition, properly applied sun creams also allow UV-B rays to reach your skin and it will still tan, albeit more slowly, but more sustainably ;) Enjoy the summer to the full and take care of yourself!

My absolute favorite tip for the summer: Our aloe vera gel as after sun wellness for your skin! It cools wonderfully and restores important nutrients to the skin that it loses in the sun. 

If you have any questions or suggestions for me, please feel free to send me an e-mail. I look forward to hearing from you! 

And here you can go directly to our selection at sun screen.

Take care.

References 

[1] https://www.bfs.de, retrieved 28.05.2020

[2] https://www.who.int/news-room/q-a-detail/ultraviolet-(uv)-index

[3] https://www.dwd.de/DE/leistungen/gefahrenindizesuvi/gefahrenindexuvi.html

[4] R E Neale et. al, The Effect of Sunscreen on Vitamin D: A Review. Br J Dermatol 2019 Nov;181(5):907-915

[5] Passeron T, Bouillon R, Callender V, et al. Sunscreen photoprotection and vitamin D status. Br J Dermatol. 2019;181(5):916‐931. doi:10.1111/bjd.17992

[6] Raffa RB, Pergolizzi JV Jr, Taylor R Jr, Kitzen JM; NEMA Research Group. Sunscreen bans: Coral reefs and skin cancer. J Clin Pharm Ther. 2019;44(1):134-139. doi:10.1111/jcpt.12778

[7] McSweeney PC. The safety of nanoparticles in sunscreens: An update for general practice. Aust Fam Physician. 2016;45(6):397-399.

[8] Pelclova D, Navratil T, Kacerova T, et al. NanoTiO2 Sunscreen Does Not Prevent Systemic Oxidative Stress Caused by UV Radiation and a Minor Amount of NanoTiO2 is Absorbed in Humans. Nanomaterials (Basel). 2019;9(6):888. published 2019 Jun 17. doi:10.3390/nano9060888

[9] Cole C, Shyr T, Ou-Yang H. Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2016;32(1):5‐10. doi:10.1111/phpp.12214

[10] http://www.dermcoll.edu.au/atoz/sun-protection-sunscreens/

[11] Shanbhag S, Nayak A, Narayan R, Nayak UY. Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics. Adv Pharm Bull. 2019;9(3):348‐359. doi:10.15171/apb.2019.042

[12] https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Vitamine read 29.05.2020

[13] Piotrowska A, Wierzbicka J, Żmijewski MA. Vitamin D in the skin physiology and pathology. Acta Biochim Pol. 2016;63(1):17‐29. doi:10.18388/abp.2015_1104

[14] Kim KB, Kim YW, Lim SK, et al. Risk assessment of zinc oxide, a cosmetic ingredient used as a UV filter of sunscreens. J Toxicol Environ Health B Crit Rev. 2017;20(3):155‐182. doi:10.1080/10937404.2017.1290516

[15] https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/ read 28.05.2020