Alcohols in cosmetics - the dose is crucial!

Alcohol is one of those things. We know it from the drinks industry, of course, but the term is also frequently used in the cosmetics industry. And the claim "alcohol free" in particular is often used as an advertising slogan. 

In general, these ingredient issues are a difficult matter. After all, we're not here to badmouth anything, but to educate and draw attention to certain processes. With these articles on the ingredient classes, I would like to shed some light on the subject and refresh your cosmetics knowledge. 

My aim is to show you the pros and cons, to explain why we avoid certain substances and why not others. This way, I give you the opportunity to form your own opinion and ultimately decide for yourself what you want to pay attention to and what is important and right for you and your skin. 

A few days ago, I read a comment under one of our Instagram posts, the gist of which was that the dose makes the poison. And that's true. But it also showed me once again how important it is to emphasize our intention. To educate and not demonize. Because concentration is - as with almost everything - the decisive factor. 

This applies to alcohols, but also to other substances that we would generally describe as "good". 

Because even "too much" pure, plant-based oil can be too much for your skin. It needs balanced care and, above all, ingredients tailored to its needs. 

I would therefore like to go into this in more detail in this article

• what alcohol is chemically
• What alcohol is used for in cosmetics
• Which alcohols you should look out for above a certain concentration
• What "bad" alcohols do to the skin  
• Which alcohols are even good for the skin 
• and which alcohols we use at junglück 

What does alcohol actually mean? 

The substances that we can summarize in the alcohol group are similar in one central element: the hydroxyl group! This means that a group consisting of an oxygen (O) and a hydrogen atom (H) is attached to a carbon chain, sometimes more or less long. In other words, an "-OH" group. This means that alcohols such as ethanol (the alcohol we drink) mix well with water, but also with organic substances. 

What are alcohols used for in cosmetics?

This ability to mix well also brings us to the first area of application for alcohols. They are great solvents! They also have a significant preservative effect. But not all alcohols are the same, that's for sure. Here too, we cannot lump all substances in this class together and say "all alcohols are bad"! Unfortunately, it's not that easy.

In general, the longer the carbon chains are, the more water-insoluble, solid and even sweeter the substances become. If we want to take taste into account for a moment.

So now let's take a look at which representatives we find in the group of alcohols and I'll give you a few INCIs to look out for. 

Which alcohols should I look out for? 

These alcohols are the kind that can dry out. I deliberately say can, because it depends on the concentration. And as we here at junglück are very concerned about the compatibility of our products, we do not use these alcohols in our products.   

These are mainly short-chain alcohols. Logically, the shorter the chain, the more liquid and water-soluble they are. 

You can often find them in 

• Disinfectants 
• Preservatives (from approx. 10 % alcohol content) 
• Solvents (carriers for odorous substances, e.g. from medicinal plants) 
• Anti-inflammatory agents 
• Cleaning agents 

Ethanol is often used in disinfectants and preservatives. The concentrations here can easily reach 50-70%. In the long term, this is far too much for our skin, as it becomes problematic from an ethanol concentration of 20%. 

Because ethanol is such a good solvent, it doesn't stop at our skin either! The protective barrier is attacked, important building blocks are destroyed and the skin becomes permeable.

This breaking of the cell connections is often used to improve the skin's ability to absorb fat-soluble Actives . This may well work, but unfortunately the barrier does not close again like an open door, but usually remains fragile. This is why uninvited guests such as bacteria and other germs can penetrate and worsen the skin's condition. 

Alcohol for blemished skin 

This cycle also plays a role with alcohol-based cleansers. Anyone who cleanses oily and blemished skin with a "bad" alcohol usually has to contend with a worsening effect later on. The drying properties may initially reduce the oily film and Reducing blemishes, but the damaged skin barrier can no longer Protect itself in the long term and more spots and inflammation occur. The skin counteracts dehydration and produces even more sebum. Sounds rather bad and unfortunately it is. 

What else does alcohol do to the skin? 

• Free radicals: Alcohol produces free radicals, which can weaken our healthy collagen structure and lead to wrinkles.
• Skin diseases: Alcohol can further aggravate skin conditions such as neurodermatitis or acne or lead to inflammatory reactions.
• Irritation: A high concentration of alcohol can lead to drier and irritated skin.
• Skin ageing: Goodbye alcohol, or hello premature skin ageing.

Which alcohols are good for the skin?

But there are also "good" alcohols, the so-called fatty alcohols. These candidates even moisturize! So be careful with the INCIs, even if it says "alcohol", this does not mean that it is a drying or irritating alcohol.

These fatty alcohols have longer carbon chains and are therefore more solid Texture. They Treat amphiphilic, i.e. fat- and water-loving at the same time! This makes them excellent emulsifiers. They combine the water and fat phases in creams and are often obtained from vegetable oils and fats. In other words, from renewable raw materials. 

Due to their properties, they also have completely different functions in cosmetics. In summary, they serve as 

• Cream bases
• Emulsifiers in water-oil mixtures
• Moisturizer
• Non-ionic and anionic surfactants
• Texture enhancer

Sugar alcohols also belong to the "good" alcohols. You are probably familiar with glycerine or sorbitol. These two moisturizers and moisturizers bind water, both in the product and in the skin, and also attract the surrounding moisture! 

Glycerine is also very well tolerated, as it is a substance produced naturally in the body, similar to hyaluronic acid. 

However, it can have a dehydrating effect from a concentration of 30% Treat - which brings us back to the initial rate: The dose makes the poison! 

Because even too much of a good thing is too much! 

It is therefore important to make sure that you either avoid the "bad" and drying alcohols completely or that they at least appear very far down the list of ingredients. If a product is declared as "alcohol free", this simply means that it does not contain any dehydrating (short-chain) alcohols. However, the recommended fatty or sugar alcohols may well be present! Therefore, from a chemical point of view, the term is not entirely correct. 

INCI list of alcohols

Some alcohols can be easily recognized by the ending "-ol". Their number is almost infinite, so unfortunately I can't list them all here. However, I hope that I have been able to give you a good indication with these two lists.  

Which alcohols do we use at junglück? 

We generally avoid dehydrating alcohols, as it is important to us that our products are particularly well tolerated. For the reasons mentioned above, we are very happy to use fatty alcohols and especially the sugar alcohol glycerine! 

It is found in almost all our products and serves as a moisture retainer. 

As you can see, it's all about knowing your stuff and scrutinizing the ingredients. And yes, the dose makes the poison! 

Take time for yourself & be good to yourself! 

Your Leonie