AHA, BHA, PHA - Effect and application of hydroxy acids

PHA, BHA, AHA - With so many similar-sounding abbreviations, it's time for an article that explains the differences and benefits of the various hydroxy acids. And if you've stumbled across this term too - don't worry, we'll start at the very beginning with the basics! 

Here is an overview of the products covered in this article: 

1. Hydroxy acid - What is it?
2. AHA, BHA, PHA - What should I look out for when using them?
3. PHA, AHA or BHA - differences and which one is right for me?
4. AHA, BHA, PHA - Tips for use

1. hydroxy acid - What is it?

If you deal with skincare a lot, then you probably already know what the abbreviations AHA, BHA and PHA stand for or have at least heard of them before. I'll repeat a few facts here for the sake of completeness: PHA stands for poly-hydroxy acid. It is the mildest variant of the three hydroxy acids, which is why it is suitable for daily use in the form of our facial toner, even for sensitive skin. BHA stands for beta-hydroxyacid (hydroxy acid in German), better known as Salicylic Acid. What the difference is here and for which purposes you should use which product, Tone we will explain later in the text. 

2. AHA, BHA, PHA- What should I look out for when using them?

Acetylsalicylic acid allergy

If you are allergic to acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin), you should generally stay away from products containing salicylic acid. As the name suggests, these two substances are closely related and can have unpleasant side effects. You should be aware of this. 

Hydroxy acids in the skincare routine

Our BHA, AHA and PHA products are best used in the evening, as they work best during the skin's night-time regeneration phase. The beauty of this leave-on peeling? You can simply continue the steps of your personal skincare routine after you have applied the BHA peeling . However, there are a few little things to bear in mind: 

• Allow AHA, BHA and PHA to absorb well before applying cream, an oil or serum . 
• Avoid the eye area during application. For the PHA toner , we therefore recommend spraying it onto a cotton pad first and then distributing to face . 

• If you use Niacinamide serum , do not apply it together with BHA or AHA peeling in the same routine. This is because Niacinamide and BHA, but also AHA peeling react together to form nicotinic acid, which can irritate Treat and even cause a reddish flush. However, if you separate the products in time, you do not have to worry about this reaction! You can use BHA peeling in the evening and Niacinamide serum in the morning apply. Incidentally, this division is particularly good for balancing out blemishes or oily skin and getting to grips with spots, blackheads and the like. 

• If you want to use Retinal products or are already doing so, it is important to give your skin enough time to get used to the new BHA peeling . Slowly sneak it into your routine by initially using it only 1-2 evenings a week and keeping an eye on your skin. If it responds well, you can slowly increase its use. If you have sensitive skin, this principle is recommended for any product, especially those containing active Actives ingredients.

BHA, PHA and rosacea & neurodermatitis

Especially with particularly sensitive skin, as is the case with neurodermatitis and rosacea, caution is always advised when testing new products. And when the word peeling or acid appears in a product name, it naturally puts people off at first. In the case of BHA and PHA , however, this need not be the case. Because BHA is very mild and particularly well tolerated. And if that is still a little too intense for you, you can switch to PHA - even gentler on the skin and therefore also worth a try for sensitive skin. 

Of course, you still need to be careful when using them. We generally recommend that you consult your doctor before using new products if you have any skin conditions. If you get the Go for the BHA peeling or the PHA toner , you should only try it out on one area at first and observe how your skin behaves after the first application. If you tolerate it well, you can start with 1-2 evenings a week and then slowly increase to a maximum of every other evening over the coming weeks. It is particularly important for sensitive skin to introduce the products slowly so that the skin is not overwhelmed and reacts with redness, spots or even a rash. 

Pregnancy and breastfeeding

We do not recommend using our hydroxy acids during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. If you would like to know how you can best care for your skin during pregnancy Moisturize , I recommend you read this article.

3. AHA, BHA or PHA - differences and which one is right for me?

Basically, it can be said that customers with oily, blemished and acne-prone skin should use BHA . This is because it unclogs pores and counteracts inflammation. Due to its anti-inflammatory effect, BHA is also very suitable for customers with rosacea. 

While if you have dry or mature skin skin, you should prefer AHA peeling . This is because AHAs moisturize the skin well and Moisturize also help with wrinkles and pigmentation spots.

PHA in turn, is particularly recommended for sensitive and dehydrated skin. As toner it is suitable for daily use and even very sensitive skin benefits from the moisturizing, protective and gently exfoliating effect. 

Here is an overview of the differences: 

4. AHA,BHA, PHA- Tips for use

With all three products, it is important to use them after a thorough and gentle facial cleansing apply. For a mild but thorough cleansing, we have different productsfrom Cleansing Oil to gel.

Once your face has been cleansed of dirt and debris, use BHA or AHA peeling or PHA toner . Put a few drops of the scrubs in your cupped (washed) hand, rub your hands together and apply a thin layer of peeling to your face and/or décolleté. Avoid the eye area. For the PHA toner , spray a few pumps onto a cotton pad and gently apply to face . Again, skip the area around the eyes. A daily application may be ideal for each individual, but you may also be fine with 2-3 times a week.  

You can then continue with your routine as usual. The peeling can also be combined with other products without any problems. However, as described above, care must be taken when using AHA and BHA in combination with Niacinamide serum and the retinal products. 

Pay attention to sun screen

If you use a chemical peeling , whether PHA, AHA or BHA, always apply sun screen during the day. By removing the dead scales, young, fresh cells are revealed, which urgently need the extra portion of protection from UV rays.  

The important points summarized once again:

• Slowly get the skin used to it (at the beginning 1-2x per week)  
• after the cleanser apply
• let it soak in 
• simply continue with another routine  
• Can be easily combined with other products
• Application frequency as needed daily or 2-3x a week  
• sun screen do not forget 
• Not suitable for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding 

I hope I have now been able to introduce you to these wonderful products and show you which one is right for you and your skin. 

Sources 

1 Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015 Aug 26;8:455-61. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S84765. PMID: 26347269; PMCID: PMC4554394.

2 Trivedi MK, Kroumpouzos G, Murase JE. A review of the safety of cosmetic procedures during pregnancy and lactation. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2017;3(1):6-10. Published 2017 Feb 27. doi:10.1016/j.ijwd.2017.01.005

3 Acne vulgaris - AMBOSS. (2020). Anvil. https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Acne_vulgaris

4 Psoriasis vulgaris - AMBOSS. (n.d.-a). Anvil. Retrieved January 12, 2021, from https://www.amboss.com/de/wissen/Psoriasis_vulgaris

5 Please be patient! (2020, January 26). DAZ.online. https://www.deutsche-apotheker-zeitung.de/daz-az/2014/daz-21-2014/bitte-geduld